We got an exclusive look at the hotly anticipated omakase and hand roll bar, Nakama, last night, and boy oh boy, it did not disappoint. Located in the old Interval coffee building on the Lower East Side, Nakama is a Japanese listening bar-inspired eatery with a focus on tamaki (handrolls), otsumami (small plates), and craft cocktails.
Head chef and owner Jason Morimoto, along with co-owners Cristian Vega, Dan Beres, and Tripper Duval, spent a year re-envisioning the space that now boasts Nakama. This dream team brings over 75 combined years of experience in the hospitality industry to Nakama and has poured their blood, sweat, and tears into bringing this concept to life.
We would have to say their hard work paid off. If there was one thing that stood out the most during our time there, it had to be the attention to detail. Whether it was the garnish on the cocktails (like the marigold head) or the backlit record displays, you could tell that each and every decision was thoughtfully made to create a memorable experience for those dining in the space.
When you first walk through the door you’re greeted by warm wood cabinetry and soft glowing lights which provide a balanced contrast to the textured ash-black walls and dark seating. It feels as if Nakama was plucked straight out of an Architectural Digest magazine, and it was even cooler to learn that the designs for the final space were initially sketched out by Chef Jason himself. A man that can do it all, we love that.
As you head past the omakase bar and up the stairs, you’ll find yourself on the second level of the building which serves as the ‘a la carte’ style side of Nakama. Tucked into this quaint room are a few tables and record displays which create an intimate, secluded setting reminiscent of the Japanese listening bars that Nakama strives to emulate. Think small, ambient lit rooms with aesthetic speaker systems and row after row of records waiting to be played. And speaking of records, your menu may or may not show up in a record jacket.
After sliding the menus from their covers, we honed in on the craft cocktail and drink section to kick things off. You can tell that each cocktail was meticulously crafted to bring out the essence of the authentic spirits while pairing playful notes, like ceremonial grade matcha, for unique flavor combinations.
We went with the Rumors lychee martini and the Pacific Standard Time margarita for our cocktails and chose the “Midnight Moon” sake to branch out and try something new. The Insta-worthy cocktails were delicious and we were delighted by the added spritz of a lemongrass tincture on the margarita.
Now, onto the food.
After much deliberation and many questions for our waitress, Gina Morimoto (Chef Jason’s wife), we settled on a few small plates including the roasted cabbage, Japan Madai Escabeche and the Itsumi-san Inari. All three exceeded our expectations and challenged our palettes, but the Itsumi-san Inari was a standout among the three. The tofu pouches (we didn’t know that was a thing) had a uniquely savory yet slightly sweet taste and were filled with rice, carrots, shiitake mushrooms, tamago, and hijiki. We were talking about them long after they were gone.
Madai (a Japanese white fish) marinated in a bright Japanese citrus and sofrito oil sauce along with pickled onions made up the escabeche. This was a flavor-forward dish that played into the dichotomy between relatively simple ingredients and their rather complex flavors when brought together.
Despite most of the tamaki having minimal ingredients, the hand rolls exuded flavor, and to us, that was one of the most impressive parts of dining here. How can a dish with only a handful of ingredients have such a rich and distinct taste? Probably because they’re working with the freshest products available at Nakama, and when you source in a way that prioritizes the quality of the ingredients, you don’t need to add much to it before you risk compromising the integrity of that ingredient. Something Chef Jason is clearly aware of. It’s likely why the soy sauce comes in a dropper bottle and not the traditional dipping dish like you see at most sushi restaurants.
Take, for example, the Maguro. The meaty slices of tuna were complimented by naganegi (green onion), kizami wasabi, and light nikiri (soy glaze). That’s it. It was delicious and punchy and made you savor every bite.
From there, we went on to order each of the hand rolls on the menu. This included the Hotate (scallop), Hamachi (yellowtail), Kyuri (cucumber), Shrimp, Maitake (hen of the woods mushroom), and the A5 Wagyu. The Maitake packed an unexpected wave of heat while the Hotate’s silky scallops were tender and complimented by orange pearls of deliciously briny ikura.
From the fluffy rice and delicate fish to the slightly salty nori wraps, the tamaki were a masterpiece in handheld form. One that we’re eager to come back and taste again.
It’s clear that there is heart and soul behind every bite at Nakama. Between the intentional ambience of the space, the thoughtfully curated cocktails, their kind team, and the awe-inspiring dishes, we have no doubt Nakama will come to be loved by all who are lucky enough to dine in the space.